Expect the Unexpected

Hi there everyone. Don’t be jealous but I’m sitting in a camp chair at our campsite right on the beach of the Northumberland Strait. A few boats float right off shore; the beach is empty. Last night I learned how to dig for clams from a local who had a giant bucket of the succulent creatures. Alas, I managed to dig up a few very small clams and, in the process, broke their shells, but… hey… it’s a learning curve.

Our first night of Air BnB was an adventure. We had arranged to meet the hosts in a church parking lot in Kamouraska de Lalemont and followed them down a long dirt driveway to a completely secluded little “chalet.” As they showed us around, we glanced at each other doubtfully – the “half bath” turned out to be an outhouse. The fully equipped kitchen was a campstove. They provided three liters of fresh water in jugs and explained how to scoop up yellow creek water to wash our dishes and bathe – yeah, right. Clearly, showers were out of the question. The place was cute and the couple had clearly devoted loving care into the finishing details – they just neglected to include – or disclose lack of –  amenities such as indoor plumbing or electricity. We laughed a lot. And got a half refund from Air BnB.

Day two was a tiny village called St. Fabien sur Mer on the Gaspe Peninsula, still in Quebec. We stayed in a “gite” – a bed and breakfast that is a room in a boarding house. Our host, Denis, made a beautiful breakfast from foods all locally grown. I did point out, however, that the eggs may have been laid nearby, the ham came from a local pig, the lettuce and tomato were fresh from the garden, but the orange juice was probably from California (or Florida)!

Then two nights in a mobile home in New Brunswick – all furnished with Ikea – feet from the Baie des Chaleurs in a tiny village on Ile Lameque (Lameque Island). We bought fresh clams from a shop on the dock, had lunch in a little diner frequented by locals, and sat on the deck enjoying the peace and quiet. We are now in Kouchibouguac National Park on the Strait of Northumberland. We met a fun couple last night who invited us over to their campsite for fresh oysters, which turned into an evening of conversation and partying over the campfire. Today stretches ahead with possibility of a canoe outing, a walk along a boardwalk set up to show off and preserve the amazing ecosystems here, and maybe a bike ride. I saw a bald eagle yesterday.

All in all, and so far, this journey is relaxing, the scenery is stunning, and we’ve been eating well. I foresee lots of shellfish ahead – clams, mussels, oysters, lobster, and scallops.

Oh, by the way, Teddy and Lady are quite content. They are getting lots of exercise and eating well (we add our dinner leftovers to their breakfast bowls).

Forget Europe – Canada ROCKS!! Nova Scotia here we come!

Tina and Jeff

Government Shutdown

Woke up this morning in Big Bend National Park in southern Texas only to learn that the park services were suspended due to lack of government funding – we were leaving anyway today, but come on!

We spent four nights at this national park, which rivals Yosemite in my book. That says a lot about the beauty, the expanse, the rock formations, just the sheer magnificence. We canoed down a small section of the Rio Grande, including a visit to St. Elena canyon – a spectacular sight. The Mexican-U.S. border runs down the center of the river and on either side loom imposing rock walls. I couldn’t help thinking about the proposed wall along the Mexican border. Nothing could rival the sheer beauty of the walls of St. Elena canyon –  Mexico and the US jointly manage the millions of acres of natural resources that make this area so special. Can't we all just get along?

While at Big Bend, we kept seeing a van that advertised a business called Forever Resorts. A cemetery, perhaps?

Texas is BIG. The landscape is unforgiving – hundreds of miles of desert, tiny towns with populations of 200 to 2000: Van Horn, Sierra Blanco. And – very little wifi or cell reception.  It is truly another world from that to most of us are accustomed. But everywhere, I am struck by the friendliness, kindness, and generosity of those we meet.  

Tonight in El Paso. Tomorrow onto a state park in New Mexico, as yet undetermined, but our trip down the Rio Grande has whetted our appetite for more canoeing. Guess we’ll have to pass on national parks for now. Too bad.

Thanks for reading.

Tales from Texas

Curlew at Padre Island National Seashore

Hi there,

It’s been awhile since we’ve checked in – had dinner in the French Quarter in New Orleans then camped in a cool spot in Louisiana called Intracoastal Park and watched the tugboats tugging barges filled with crude oil. When we pulled into the empty campground and told the campground host we wanted to stay the night, she looked me up and down and said, “You need a reservation.” So, I made one on the spot. It was somewhat humorous.

We spent four nights at one of the most beautiful spots I’ve ever experienced – Padre Island National Seashore. Miles of empty beach, birds, sunrises over the Gulf Coast. We stayed an extra night just to revel in our first really warm, sunny day. Of course, staying at a beach campground means sand – sand in the food, sand in the clothing, sand in the van – a new meaning for “true grit.”

Now it’s on to Big Bend National Park – but first a stop in Uvalde Texas and then a night at Seminole Canyon National Park. I love the senior discount at the national parks. Makes me proud to be an (old) American!

Yippee yi oh –

t